Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Ypres: Tyne Cot

They are many soldier cemeteries in Flanders around Ypres. Tyne Cot is the largest Commonwealth Cemetery in the world, containing 11,896 burials to date. Of these,8,369 are unidentified. There is also memorial listing 35,000 more soldiers missing in action; Menin Gate was not large enough to hold the names of all the missing, so a second monument was errected here to accomodate the extra names.
Entrance to Tyne Cot Cemetery, Zonnebeke, Belgium
 
 As the majority of remains are unidentified, most headstones are like this.


Some bear the nationality or regiment of the soldier (where this could be established from personal effects, uniforms etc.)


Very few have names.


A new visitor centre has recently opened at Tyne Cot (largely funded by the Australian Government).

There is a small display containing letters, documents and artifacts that were found in the fields around Tyne Cot. A recorded voice can be heard as you walk toward the visitor centre; it reads out the name and age of all the dead.  

There are many other museums, displays and visitor centres throughout the area. Interstingly, most of them discuss the war from both the allied and German points of view. They are all very anti war, but generally not preachy - they don't need to be, the material speaks for itself.

The "In Flanders Field Museum" in Ypres presents the war from the point of view of the everyday life of soldiers. Certainly worth a visit, but harrowing. We didn't go down further down the road to the Passchedaele Museum, though.
There wasn't really anything left to be said.






Ypres

Sunday 12th September
Lille is in Flanders, close to the border with Belgium and Ypres, which was the centre of some of the fiercest and most futile fighting of WWI.Some preliminary searching revealed that John has a relation who fought and died at Ypres. So on Sunday 12th September, we hired a car and drove into Belgium, probably the first members of the family in nearly 100 years to visit.

Ypres(pronounced Eeepray)is the French (and most widely used) name of the town. Locally, it is now known by the Belgium name Ieper (Eeeper).The allied soldiers couldn't manage either and called it "Wipers". It was an extremely wealthy city in the Middle Ages being a centre of the cloth trade.Ypres was almost totally destroyed during the 4 year bombardment of WWI, but much of the orginal gothic artchitecture has been reconstructed. There was very little remaining of the 12thC Cloth Hall in 1918. 

Cloth Hall; Ypres 1918

Cloth Hall, Ieper, Belgium, 12th September 2010
Rebuilding began in 1922 and was completed in 1968. Today, the Cloth Hall is an exact replica of its original Medieval glory and is World Heritage listed. Impressive as the Cloth House is, we were there to find a memorial to a fallen soildier.

Lance Corporal George Allen Grandfield
Born:                                        Lilydale, Tasmania(Australia)
Age at enlistment:                  20 years and 3 months
Enlisted:                                  14th August 1915
Reported for duty:                  24th August 1915
Departure from Tasmania:   19th October 1915
Date of Departure Aus:         26th November 1915
Service Number:                    3330
Australian Infantry Forces:     AIF
Date of Death:                        25th September 1917
Memorial:                                Ypres – Menin Gate
Medals:                                   1914‐15 Star, British War Medal, Victory Medal
Rate of Pay:                            5 shillings per day of which 4 were paid to his mother
Private Grandfield was originally assigned to 24th Battalion, 7th reinforcements and embarked from Melbourne on board HMAT A73 Commonwealth on 26th November 1915, bound for Egypt. He was reassigned to 57th Battalion, 15th Brigade, 5th Division, “D” company. The 57th Battalion was composed of 50% of 5th Battalion (what was left from those who had served at Gallipoli) plus new ANZAC, Indian and Norwegian recruits; Companies A and;B were soldiers from suburban Melbourne, Company C (soldiers from rural Victoria), Company D were the rest, from other States (including Tasmania), plus men from India, New Zealand, New Guinea the UK and Norway. Many did not have rifles upon arrival at camp in Egypt; those that did had the wrong ammunition which was returned to stores. Training was hampered by problems with supply (water and munitions) and by an outbreak of mumps which affected most of the recruits. After training, the 57th were posted to active duty on the Western Front in France.

57th Battalion AIF: Western Front Service
1st July – 18th November 1916: Somme
19th‐20th July 1916: Fromelles
[5,533 Australian casualties at Fromelles from the 5th Div.]

3rd May – 17th May 1917: Bullecourt
31st July‐1st November 1917: Ypres (3rd Battle)
Menin Road: Hellfire Corner, 1917


Menin Road, Hellfire Corner, 12th September 2010 (picture won't load!!!)
20th‐25th September 1917:
Lance Corporal Grandfield was killed in action on 25th September 1917, somewhere near Hellfire Corner, on the Menin Road. His body was not recovered and his grave is unknown.
 
Allied Troop Dispositions; Western Front 20th-26th Spetember 2010
On 26th September, the 57th Battalion moved on to fight at Passchendale, where 63% of them were either killed or wounded. The 57th Battalion daily diary has been digitised and can be read here.

330,000 Australian soldiers served in WWI, 61,513 were killed, 9% of all Australian casualties were inflicted in one day at Fromelles. Of the 57th Battalion, 505 were killed, 1253 were wounded. 

Menin Gate, Ypres, 1918
After the war, a memorial was errected at Menin Gate. It lists the 54,349 Commonwealth soldiers killed in Ypres whose graves are unknown. Lance Corporal Grandfield's name is listed among the fallen.
Menin Gate Memorial, Ypres 12th September 2010













































































In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
(Major John McCrae, M.D - Canadian Army, 1915)

Bent double, like old beggars under sacks, 
Knock-kneed, coughing like hags, we cursed through sludge, 
Till on the haunting flares we turned our backs 
And towards our distant rest began to trudge. 
Men marched asleep. Many had lost their boots 
But limped on, blood-shod. All went lame; all blind; 
Drunk with fatigue; deaf even to the hoots 
Of tired, outstripped Five-Nines that dropped behind. 
 
Gas! Gas! Quick, boys! –  An ecstasy of fumbling, 
Fitting the clumsy helmets just in time; 
But someone still was yelling out and stumbling, 
And flound'ring like a man in fire or lime . . . 
Dim, through the misty panes and thick green light, 
As under a green sea, I saw him drowning.
In all my dreams, before my helpless sight

He plunges at me, guttering, choking, drowning.
If in some smothering dreams you too could pace 
Behind the wagon that we flung him in, 
And watch the white eyes writhing in his face, 
His hanging face, like a devil's sick of sin; 
If you could hear, at every jolt, the blood 
Come gargling from the froth-corrupted lungs, 
Obscene as cancer, bitter as the cud
Of vile, incurable sores on innocent tongues, 
My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory, 
The old Lie; Dulce et Decorum est 
Pro patria mori.
[Wilfred Owen, October 1917]
[Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori - it is sweet and right to die for your country]  
The Last Post is played at Menin Gate Memorial every evening at 8pm. The cermemony has been performed every day since 1927.

 

Monday, September 13, 2010

Lille Deux

Saturday 11th September 

I'm in catch up mode with the blog and am actually sitting in a hotel room in sunny Germany as I write. It is now Wednesday 15th.

Where were we? Oh yes, way back on Saturday we were in Lille. An unexpectly lovely medieval town. Lots of winding cobblestone streets, tall higgledy-piggledy buildings with crazy rennovations,weird roof lines and manically leaning chimney pots. I doubt that anyone applies for buidling permits here. Our hotel room was on the 4th floor, so we had a fascinating view of the Lille roofscape.

Rooftops in LIlle (view from 4th floor window at Hotel Up)


Lille Fact File:
  • 3 million residents in Lille and surrounding suburbs
  • Most of them seem to be shopping on Saturday!
  • There are the "usual" shops that you would find in any international shopping mall so nothing remarkable there, but there are specialities de Lilliose; 
Boulangeries (fabulous bread), Patisseries (wicked cakes)

There are more chocolate shops than I ever have seen in one town. The oldest of these is Meert (established in 1762).

Historically, Meert is famous for supplying cakes and chocolates to French nobility, more recently opinion is divided. Are they still fabulous or are they trading on past (justifiable) glories? Reviews on the web show that the French love Meert while international tourists are inclined to give them a panning, mostly because of price (yes, they are expensive) and because they don't speak English in the shop (D'oh this is France!). But we managed to buy some chocolates and the staff coped with our point and grunt French quite cheefully. The confections are highest quality and are superbly presented so I say the French are right. As for price, yes they are not cheap, but this is a hand made artisanal product and you get what you pay for. I bought some dark chocolate dipped glace orange slices. They are absoultely gorgeous (particularly with a good cup of coffee) but are so rich that they are not the sort of chocolates where you can scoff a whole box in one sitting. And that's how I like chocolates and cake, thick, rich and very rarely!


Somewhat surprisingly, there are many second hand and antiquarian bookshops in Lille. However, this is a University town, in fact it seemed to be the start of the academic year. There were groups of bewildered first years being hazed all over town by their more mature colleagues(ie 2nd years.)Nothing changes, come ca?

Charles de Gaulle was born in Lille (the main square -in the video below is now named Place de La General de Gaulle)

 
Place de General de Gaulle (town centre)
As you might expect, there are many, many cafes in Lille where the Lilloise sit out at small tables in the sun; drinking and smoking (my God I wanted a Gauloise!).Bier is a popular drink, especially Leffre Ruby (red fruit based beer). No one seems to eat until after 7.00pm (except of course, le tourists.) Many of the cafes in the main squares offer regional menus, but most of them are designed for for visitors - the carbonade I had had certainly seen better days. But there is good, interesting food to be had in Lille. We had lunch (with locals) at Les Charlottes Enville, a restaurant that had a potato and salad based menu. Bon!

Lille

Friday 11th September 2010
Gare Lille Flanders(Sunday 12th September)

We arrived in Lille during the Friday afternoon rush after 27 hours in planes, trains and taxis. First thing to do was go for a walk to beat the jet lag. But it is always a lost cause for me because I never manage to sleep on long flights. And jet lag makes you so stupid, I found myself looking at French writing thinking that I had forgotten how to read (yes Sue they are speaking a different language;and then trying to remember which country we were in, juggling how to say please and thank you in French/Dutch/German; failing to pick the right language, resorting to hand gestures (I'm fluent in those!). Aack weak effort. Even the signs in the hotel looked a little odd to me...

Emergency Evaculation Sign, Hotel Up (Lille, France)
Nice hotel, super quiet, comfy bed, but their English is as good as my French :)

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

On the Road to Germany!

Blogging will resume soon. We are off on our travels again - On the Road to Germany! Whoo hoo!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

FIFA all through the night

So there's this thing called the World Cup. And it's on late at night. And the best matches usually start at 4am in the morning. I put my foot out and there it was in the back of the net. (Bloody Jabulani ball!!!!!)



Yawn. Excuse me.

What passes for normal service will resume after the World Cup.

GO ORANJES!!!!

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Apollo Bay Music Festival

A quick entry about the Apollo Bay music Festival. We took a week off to go to Apollo Bay for SWMBO’s significant birthday including the music festival on the weekend.

We have been to the festival about 6 times in the last 10 years and we like the location and the diversity of acts: folk, jazz, classical, big names, blues etc. It runs from 4 pm Friday through to 6pm Sunday with about 10 parallel sessions. Performances are held in venues round town, pubs, surf club bowls club, church, mechanics institute and some big tents erected for the show. If you had the stamina you could take in 30 hours of music and about the same number of bands.
It rained a bit but was not cold and the ambience was lively and relaxed. Street stalls selling take away, buskers, face painting and the nearby sound of surf added to the ambience.

KAssey Chambers was the headline act but we skipped her and we saw The Bastard Children (very loud gutsy folk/gypsy blues originals:excellent in the pub), The Big Low (Tom Waits meets Kurt Vile in the Tasmanian Wilderness playing the saw: any band with a saw gets our vote), Celtic Storm (more like Celtic light showers but they did have a good piper), Clair Jenkins avec Band(a Quebecois lady channelling Edith Piaff and Dolores O'Riordan from the Cranberries: nice but a bit boring), Djan Djan (folk super group with Mamadou Diabte on Cora, Jeff Lang on Guitar and Bobby Singh on Tabla: loved it), Four Play (string quartet does Leonard Cohen, rock, original classic compositions, and jazz: They were stunning. Best Rendition of ACDC’s Back in Black ever), Lee Rosser (local blues/roots guy with big voice), Kerri Simpson (straight Memphis blues: solid), Rory Ellis (acoustic blues with an Australian twist), Rhys Crimmin (young blues guy with loads of talent:watch out for him), Tijuana Cartel (Santana goes techno in Iraq: due to sound problems their PC didn’t play the techno bits and instead we had to put up with a brilliant Latin acoustic guitar set: fine by me. They should lose the techno) and The Wilson Pickers (blue grass with attitude: any band with banjo is fine).

We finished with Melbourne based The Band Who Knew Too Much, a favourite of ours for many years. They play at pubs around town and sometimes busk at Vic Market. We saw them in the pub at 4 pm. The room was jam packed standing room only and the audience knew their songs. It went off. Haven’t seen such a high energy show for years. We seem to have seen quite a few bands in the pub (most have been something to do with the excellent local brewed Otway Estate Prickly Moses pale ale).

Friday, March 5, 2010

The TMS Annual Meeting

Sue asked me to write something for the blog about the TMS conference (the reason we went to Seattle). I suggested this was an extremely boring topic. SWMBO suggests that a good writer can make anything interesting. Here is my attempt at making TMS interesting.

The TMS (The Materials Society) annual meeting involves more than 4000 academics, ducks(family anatidea) and industry technologists converging on some unsuspecting US city for four days of exhibitions, presentations of latest research, sitting in ponds etc. Much of the talk is about metals including sessions on magnesium and aluminium (the most exciting of metals) the rest is about mallards(Anas platyrhynchos). For my own part, I was guilty of organising the cast shop aluminium sessions (extremely interesting session involving the Rolling Stones presenting on “I can’t get no qwack free DC casting”). The exalted title of “Subject Chair” gives me a mandate to cajole and threaten people into preparing papers and others into chairing the sessions (I used my last favours with Mad Pete Trullo). It also means I get to go to the author’s coffee session where session chairs meet the speakers and we eat exciting bagels and Peking duck for breakfast.

Being a cagey old veteran of these campaigns, I persuaded my young collaborators into the front line to present work I have been involved in. That way I get some of the glory if they go well but can slink back to the bunker if they are shot down in flames. This year Mark Turski (who presented on our work on applying math modelling to control cracks in difficult to cast magnesium rolling slab) and Vu Nguyen (presenting on ingot casting filling system design), both made interesting and fun presentations I was proud to be associated with.

Some of the best fun to be had at TMS is in the corridors between sessions catching up with old friends and dodging the duck poo. The exhibition has displays of latest equipment, eiderdown and technology services. Inexplicably, there was a Lamborghini on display.

Some other highlights: the opening plenary session included a talk by Mark ver Brugge from GM about how and where aluminium and duck down are being used in cars to reduce weight and increase fuel efficiency. Kelly Driscol from CRU gave an interesting analysis of future power sources, duck migration and prices for aluminium production. Like all economic forecasters’ statements it comes down to “what happens depends on what happens” e.g. the price of aluminium will go up if the Chinese price of coal goes up, Middle East natural gas is offered to smelters at market price not cost price and if duck egg price goes down.

Another highlight for me was a talk on using solar energy to produce metals and there was lots of other useful stuff like calculations of the air speed velocity of a coconut laden drake, reducing furnace energy consumption and improving safety in the cast house for operators and ducks alike.

I came away thinking positive i.e. the metals industry is trying to lift its game and reduce energy consumption and help save the environment from global warming so that more ducks can enjoy our planet.

This post was sponsored by Drake International.

Damn you Jeremy Clarkson!@&^&^&^&^%#&@!!!

I managed to get through the first fortysomething years of my life blissfully unaware of and uncaring about cars. My automotive expertise was limited to a rag bag of eclectic trivia:
  1. To stop a Valiant Charger fishtailing, my schoolfriend's brother would load a sack of Briquettes in the boot 
  2. The Blues Brothers film includes a couple of good car chases
  3. Ralph Sarich's Orbital Engine was always going to annoy the oil industry
  4. Rod Stewart had a fondness for leary Italian sportscars - I knew they were Maserati because he mentioned them in the lyrics of Italian Girls on "Never a Dull Moment"
  5. My mother would only ever be pulled over for speeding when the vicar was in the car with us
I had always thought of cars as a way of getting from A to B. End of story. Or so I thought. And then I discovered Top Gear.At first the effects were subtle;
  • I realised that the interior of our Subaru Forester was a bit too plastic
  • I discovered that the exciting car chase in Ronin included a maneuver called a four wheel drift (often considered to be the best ever filmed)
  • I began to notice vast numbers of silver Mercedes in the Eastern suburbs of Melbourne
  • I started looking up prices on the Audi website
  • Then I found I was starting to memorize model numbers of numbers of BMW's!!!!!
 

So it was really no surprise to me that I took some interest in the types of auto on the road in the US. Again, it began with curiosities; I was interested to see that Coca Cola has a fleet of hybrid electric delivery trucks. 

And I had a Sesame Street moment when I saw my first American School Bus in real life (outside the Seattle Art Gallery).

In general though, most American cars seemed pretty dull; all those Chevy sedans, Pontiacs and the occassional lumbering Lincoln Continental.

That was until we got to Arizona, Four Corners territory, the Navajo Nation, domain of the pickup truck. Everywhere you looked, pickup trucks, massive GMC's, huge Chevvys and most gigantic and popular of them all, the DODGE RAM! The name deserves capitalisation, somehow everytime I saw one (and to John's consternation), I felt compelled to shout the name out loud. We were driving a Chevvy Equinox SUV, which was a vast, heavy tank of a thing compared to Australian 4x4's; but seeing the chrome ramshead logo of a DODGE RAM! in the rear view mirror as it roared down on you was a fearsome sight indeed. 


Now the average Navajo is not wealthy, in fact the Navajo Nation is a region of quite obvious poverty. But the amazing thing about these herds of pickups was that they were mostly bright, new models, rather than the rust buckets you would expect in poorer suburbs at home. Driving through the Four Corners country you could also see that most families had more than one pickup often as well as other cars - in one case I counted 27 parked up around the same property(admittedly they were in various states of decay).

But how can this be? How are these shiny new titans acquired? And the answer may go a long way to explaining why car companies in the US are going to the wall. Dodge are offering buyers of the new DODGE RAM models the most amazing terms; No deposit, O% interest for 5 years, no payments for 2 years, plus $2,000 cash in hand to the purchaser. GMC have a similar deal, although they are offering $4,000 cash back! Of course, once you have one of these mighty beasts in your clutches, you need to feed it huge quantities of gas - depending on the model the DODGE RAM promises 12-19mpg, and that on good roads. Roads on the Reservation can rarely be said to be good, more likely quagmires of muddy red ochre in winter and sandpits in summer. Still, the memory of tiny, tiny Navajo women peering through the steering wheels of their pickup trucks in Window Rock and Kayenta was truly memorable.

So here is my Pickup Truck Parade of the South West, the top ten tonners on the road. (Interestingly, I noticed that if you leave Land Rovers out, the order of the list reverses as you drive closer to Pheonix and suburbia.)


South West Pickup Parade (4x4) 

1. Dodge Ram (Gigantic!!!)
2.
GMC (Monsterous!!)
3.
Chevy (Just huge!)
4.
Ford (For pussies)
5.
Jeep (For tour guides only)
6.
Subaru(Dwarfed by everything else)
7.
SUV's (Tourist hire cars)
8.
Land Rover (Rare)
9.
Town cars (Extremely rare)

====================
10. Toyota (on recall, the pickup that dare not speak its name...) 


Damn, you Jeremy Clarkson!

Edited to add: Sorry folks, I still don't get it about F1!
AND I still love my little Honda Jazz



    QF Prog Rock

    I have always been an indifferent aeronaut. I put this down to the fact that my father was an aeronautical engineer working for Vickers Armstrong (later the British Aircraft Corporation). Our dinner time conversations were often about dramatic air disasters or spectacular test flights he had taken part in, most often in an aeroplane know as "The Vomit Comet".Dad's somewhat absent minded flying style as a glider pilot didn't help either. When I was a child, being a passenger was an exciting roller coaster ride, with vivid, added comentary about pilots who had frozen to death or passed out from flying too high. As an adult, I am armed with a little too much information that I would rather not have.

    Two nights ago I was once again sitting in a 747, 38,000ft above the Pacific Ocean, trying to keep calm. Yes, I know all the statistics, flying is safer than driving a car or crossing the road. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I was doing pretty well too, floating along on a mixture of complementary scotch, champagne and a couple of Valium. Feeling smug about it too, as heavy weather in the Pacific meant that much of the flight had been moderately turbulent.(John denies this, but cannot be relied upon as he slept for the first nine hours of the flight.) But then around 4am, the Captain switched on the seatbelt sign and announced that we were going to go through some pretty "signifcant" turbulence. In aeronautical terms this means bumpy as hell. John (who had actually woken up at this point), claims it only rated 7/10 in his experience of turbulence, but even he stayed awake wearing a facial expression like an owl that was being given an enema. He claims this was because of the film he was watching (and incidentally one that he recommends): District Nine.

    In flight entertainment was denied to me, as my seat, screen, handset and noise reduction headphones were all, to put it politely, completely cactus. What to do? Only one course of action, drag out the walkman and queue the prog rock; Jethro Tull, Supertramp and best of all, Quadrophenia by The Who.

    The Who (or what's left them) were harshly criticised for their recent Superbowl performance. But Quadrophenia is a sublimely manic piece, recorded in 1973 when they were at the top of their form. And so here I was, bashing through the sky at 600mph accompanied by Roger Daltry's huge voice, John Entwistle's superfast bass, Pete Townshend's mad vision and best of all, the extreme,insane,drumming of Keith Moon. As a soundtrack to 1 hour and 16 minutes of inflight turbulence(yes, I timed it), nothing better - or to quote Pete Townshend; Getting high, you can't beat it...

    My name is Sue and I hate flying

    Tuesday, March 2, 2010

    Highlights of Arizona

    Due to patchy access to wireless and the fact that we are having such a good time, you may have noiticed little blogging has taken place lately. We are slumming it in the Fairmont hotel in San Francisco at the moment soon to leave for the airport. Full service will resume when we get home and have unpacked. However, in the meantime here are a few titbits to keep everyone interested.




    Flagstaff
    after a winter of 8 ft of snow











    Grand Canyon Snowed out on first visit but glorious sun on 2nd go






























    Monument Valley

     


























    Ancient Annasazi Indian ruins and pictographs and Canyon de Chelly































    Plus.................Elevator cam videos by Sue.



    Incidentally, thanks Brian for the comment. Yes there does seem to be a bit of a food theme to the blog entries. Just wait for our comments on American serving sizes...........

    Saturday, February 20, 2010

    Charisma

    We attended two performances at Benaroya Hall - home of the Seattle Syphony- while we were in Seattle. First performance featured the Barber violin concerto Op. 14 , played by the Symphony with Stefan Jackiw as soloist. The other was the Russian National Orchestra who were joined by for the Dvorak cello concerto in B minor, Op 10 by Sergey Antonov. While both orchestras were technically excellent and generally enjoyable, the real entertainent came from the performances with the soloists. The stage seemed to light up when the soloists were there. Which got me thinking about the subject of charisma. Both of these performers had it, but what is it? Both had individualist styles of dress and mannerisms in style of playing. Both were techically brilliant but played with extra expression and emotion lacking from the players in the orchestra.  But there is more to it than that somehow. While we were waiting in the foyer, I couldn't help noticing a young man at the coat check room. He was snappily dressed in a red shirt, black velvet jacket and pale chinos, but apart from that, there was something about his poise that made him stand out. I wasn't aware of it at the time, but this was the soloist, Stefan Jackiw. At the second concert, Sergey Antonov wore a shiny petrol blue suit which contrasted wonderfully with his strawberry blond hair. His hair is the same colour as his cello so this makes a striking statement. He is very tall,somewhat spindly, and peers down over the top of his chello, like a little boy peeking over the bannisters. Very endearing. Very engaging. Great concert.

    One of my favourite artists, Dale Chihuly is a local resident and is also husband of the Chair of the Seattle Symphonys Board of Directors. Two of Chihullys' fantastic glass chandeliers hang in Benaroya Hall. Fabulous creations, again, techincally marvelous, breathtakingly beautiful, I love them. But you couldn't imagine living with them, they are completely over the top, attention grabbers,domineering show stoppers . Absolutely stunning. 

    And even Seattle itself, there is something about it that is just, well, charismatic. Loved the place. Arizona next up.

    Pike Place Market

    We are in Seattle, we are keeping a travel blog, so it is a must to have a post on the Pike Place Market. Established in 1907, the market is charming in a Dickensian sort of way,but  is very shabby with run down infrastructure (I got an electric shock from the wiring in a change room). The market has just started modernisation and rennovation, so I'm glad to have to have seen it in its original state. 
    Probably the most famous stall at the market is the self styled World Famous Pike Place Fish Market. These guys have a great stock of banter and repartee and are known for throwing customer orders across the counters (it's too far to walk round they say.) This piscatorial performance gathers crowds of spectators; and notoriety; the stall has appeared in several films and on televsion (Sleepless in Seattle and Frasier among them.)Can't get to the market? No problem. The World Famous Fishists (they named themselves as they thought it would be good marketing);have their own Fish Web Cam...

    Stalls at the market contain all the usual suspects; ,fruit, veggies, meat, more fish, flowers, restaurants, craft, brick a brack, antiques etc, but there are also several vendors who are unique to the market:
    • Chukar Cherries (yum, those Chocolate covered Bing Cherries)
    • Market Magic - (old,old magic store wonderful vintage posters)
    • Specialist chilli sellers
    • Giant Shoe Museum - (at Old Seattle Paperworks)
    • Dentist
    • Pike Pub Brewery (specialist beers brewed in site including the Kilt Lifter)
    • De Laurenti - (delli with a huge range of cheeses)
    The original Starbucks is also at the market. But there are far better places to get coffee in Seattle. 
     Chukar cherries











    Chilli vendor -  don't try to get served here unless you are under 30 and female.

    Pub brewry













    SO just what is a rotary grocery?
    One of the many vintage posters at Market Magic
    Meanwhile, at the Giant Shoe Museum, they have the "Greatest Shoe on Earth." (Groan.)




    And the dentist
    Another self explanatory one...
    A specialist bookseller

    And finally, "Shirts for Perverts". (Yes, I would say that most of the shirts fit the description).