Saturday, February 20, 2010

Charisma

We attended two performances at Benaroya Hall - home of the Seattle Syphony- while we were in Seattle. First performance featured the Barber violin concerto Op. 14 , played by the Symphony with Stefan Jackiw as soloist. The other was the Russian National Orchestra who were joined by for the Dvorak cello concerto in B minor, Op 10 by Sergey Antonov. While both orchestras were technically excellent and generally enjoyable, the real entertainent came from the performances with the soloists. The stage seemed to light up when the soloists were there. Which got me thinking about the subject of charisma. Both of these performers had it, but what is it? Both had individualist styles of dress and mannerisms in style of playing. Both were techically brilliant but played with extra expression and emotion lacking from the players in the orchestra.  But there is more to it than that somehow. While we were waiting in the foyer, I couldn't help noticing a young man at the coat check room. He was snappily dressed in a red shirt, black velvet jacket and pale chinos, but apart from that, there was something about his poise that made him stand out. I wasn't aware of it at the time, but this was the soloist, Stefan Jackiw. At the second concert, Sergey Antonov wore a shiny petrol blue suit which contrasted wonderfully with his strawberry blond hair. His hair is the same colour as his cello so this makes a striking statement. He is very tall,somewhat spindly, and peers down over the top of his chello, like a little boy peeking over the bannisters. Very endearing. Very engaging. Great concert.

One of my favourite artists, Dale Chihuly is a local resident and is also husband of the Chair of the Seattle Symphonys Board of Directors. Two of Chihullys' fantastic glass chandeliers hang in Benaroya Hall. Fabulous creations, again, techincally marvelous, breathtakingly beautiful, I love them. But you couldn't imagine living with them, they are completely over the top, attention grabbers,domineering show stoppers . Absolutely stunning. 

And even Seattle itself, there is something about it that is just, well, charismatic. Loved the place. Arizona next up.

Pike Place Market

We are in Seattle, we are keeping a travel blog, so it is a must to have a post on the Pike Place Market. Established in 1907, the market is charming in a Dickensian sort of way,but  is very shabby with run down infrastructure (I got an electric shock from the wiring in a change room). The market has just started modernisation and rennovation, so I'm glad to have to have seen it in its original state. 
Probably the most famous stall at the market is the self styled World Famous Pike Place Fish Market. These guys have a great stock of banter and repartee and are known for throwing customer orders across the counters (it's too far to walk round they say.) This piscatorial performance gathers crowds of spectators; and notoriety; the stall has appeared in several films and on televsion (Sleepless in Seattle and Frasier among them.)Can't get to the market? No problem. The World Famous Fishists (they named themselves as they thought it would be good marketing);have their own Fish Web Cam...

Stalls at the market contain all the usual suspects; ,fruit, veggies, meat, more fish, flowers, restaurants, craft, brick a brack, antiques etc, but there are also several vendors who are unique to the market:
  • Chukar Cherries (yum, those Chocolate covered Bing Cherries)
  • Market Magic - (old,old magic store wonderful vintage posters)
  • Specialist chilli sellers
  • Giant Shoe Museum - (at Old Seattle Paperworks)
  • Dentist
  • Pike Pub Brewery (specialist beers brewed in site including the Kilt Lifter)
  • De Laurenti - (delli with a huge range of cheeses)
The original Starbucks is also at the market. But there are far better places to get coffee in Seattle. 
 Chukar cherries











Chilli vendor -  don't try to get served here unless you are under 30 and female.

Pub brewry













SO just what is a rotary grocery?
One of the many vintage posters at Market Magic
Meanwhile, at the Giant Shoe Museum, they have the "Greatest Shoe on Earth." (Groan.)




And the dentist
Another self explanatory one...
A specialist bookseller

And finally, "Shirts for Perverts". (Yes, I would say that most of the shirts fit the description).

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Right of reply : Puget Sound sunset

And now they're blushing! Pfffhhtttt! Shy mountains indeed.
Sorry about that! I must have caught poetry from the People's poet who accosted us in the street last night. He claimed to be chanelling Shakespeare. For a couple of bucks. Yes, there are many beggars in Seattle. Most of them don't perform poetry, but I did see one wearing balloon animals on his head. For a price.

I like to be in America,
OK by me in America,
Everything's free in America,
For a small fee in America...
(Stephen Sondheim)

Not shy

The mountains of Washington state may be shy, but the citizens of Seattle are not. Everyone says good morning to you, shop keepers are unfailingly cheerful and passers by stop to help if you are exhibiting that lost tourist look. I've even been stopped and told that my glasses are cool, way cool. 

I was surprised the first time it happened, but I'm on my fourth go round now so am well rehearsed. For the record, people of Seattle, my everyday green glasses you are all so taken with are Mikli. They were designed in France, I bought them in Melbourne so they are better travelled than me. 

PS: Wait till you get a load of the red ones Seattle!

Shy

We had dinner at 94 Stewart last night. Nice, non pretentious bistro with a menu focussed on local produce; salmon, crab, duck and rabbit. The waiter was apologetic, the  holiday weekend had left the menu a little "shy" (no calamari, no pork belly confit, no truffled rabbit). We ordered duck rillettes, Alaskan salmon and seafood platter (crab, scallops and fresh calamari which was delivered while we were drinking pre dinner drinks). Beer ( "The Immortal IPA - Elysisan") and wine La Bete (a pinot noir from Oregon ). Tablecloths topped with butchers paper and as a nice touch, each table had a box of Crayola's. I think I was the only one drawing in the restaurant - but I can't resist a box of crayons. Anyway, the restaurant was a good humoured type of place so a good time was had by all.

Menus are not the only things that are shy in Seattle. Local mountains are timid, retiring types too. For much of the week that we have been here, the horizon has been grey and cloudy, featuring islands across the bay. Very picturesque in a wintery sort of way. But yesterday the sun came out for a short spell and good grief - now we see why the hotel staff said that our room has the best view in the house. That grey, lumpy background away on the right is actually a ring of mountains! John was away at the TMS conference, but I had my lunch on the terrace-with-a-glorious-view. Hard to capture on film but presenting the Olympic Mountains;

The mountains peeped through the a gap in the rain clouds first thing this morning too. As I type, they've come over all shy again and are veiling themselves in cloud to spend another reclusive day lurking in the background. Mind you, the view from the desk is still pretty impressive;

Monday, February 15, 2010

Happy Valentines Day

Evening turndown service, Sunday 14th Febraury 2010.

Happy Valentines Day from the Inn at the Market, Seattle xxx

Sunday in Seattle

Strolling through Seattle is just the way to spend a leisurely (reasonably) fine winter Sunday morning. But not without some stress - John walks slightly faster than I do so our progress becomes somewhat regal; John in front, me two paces behind.

But it's a lovely morning for walking and Seattle is very photogenic in the soft, grey light. Elliot Bay Books opens at 11 - we were early so walked around the Pioneer Square district. This used to be the poorest area of town where all the flop houses were, but it is now very artsy - full of galleries, coffee shops and boutiques. The squares and alleyways are dressed with native and contemporary arts.

Everything old is new again: retro thermos ware as gallery collectibles.


Alleyway plastic bottle instalation
Totem poles in Occidental Park


Tsonqua: Occidental Park

















Q:What else do you do while you wait for a bookstore to open?

A:Have a coffee and cake


It was real,strong, Italian coffee too.


Fresh, buttery almond croissant.


Cafe Umbria. Bustling, bright and obviously a favourite with locals.


Mmmmmm.









And finally, Elliot Bay Book Company. The current shop runs on for for rooms and rooms, upstairs and down. They are about to move to new premises on Capitol Hill and they are running stock down. Even so, the inventory is vast and tempting, but suitcase space is limited.
1 book each. Honestly.

Transports of Delight : Going Boeing


Seattle  is home to 2 of the world’s largest corporations; Microsoft and Boeing. Microsoft are predictably unfriendly to tourists, but Boeing run public tours of their Everett complex. Costs $15, 9-5, on the hour, every hour, every day (except Christmas day). Problem is getting there. Boeing is 32 miles north of Seattle and while public transport is possible, no one seems to know how. Locals just don’t  travel that way.  The only practical option is to hire a car, which adds $120 to the price of the tour (and only if we return the SUV to AVIS before 4.45 the same day). But you do these things right?
The traffic was surprisingly heavy for Saturday morning - we later learned that it was a long weekend (President’s Day on Monday 15th) and everyone is travelling to Seattle for the holiday. Driving in the US is alarming if you are not used to driving on the “other” side of the road and is horryifyingly surreal if you have jet lag. But the trip was quick and we were at Boeing in 35 minutes. Photography is banned in the factory, in fact you have to hire a locker and leave all your personal belongings outside before the tour starts. To fulfill the tourist need for photography, Boeing have put together the “Future of Flight" a gallery of aircraft parts and distrbing facts which you can browse before the tour:

In the Future of Flight gallery:
  • Alarming videos of engines disintegrating
  • Alarming footage of bird strike testing
  • Alarming push button simulation of a jet engine at take off
  • Alarming middle aged men in leather flying jackets
  • Exremely alarming cross section of the new latest Boeing 778
    The fuselage of the "Dreamliner" is made up of super thin carbon fiber (picture below)

The tour;

  • 6 minute film (the projetor displayed an overheat warning throughout - Boeing say it is too expensive to fix so we should just ignore the message - alarming!)
  • Bus ride to the factory
  • Short walk through the tunnels under the factory
  • Freight elevator (held all 52 of us) to the third floor viewing platform over the factory. Amazing - it is not enclosed or roped off, you can just peer over the top at the 747-8's being assembled
  • Second bus trip to see the 778 Dreamliners being assembled


A few Boeing facts:
  • The Boeing factory is the largest building in the world (it is in the Guiness Book of World's Records (they have several entries in there)
  • 5 stories high, bigger than Disneyland, would hold 9,000 basketball courts
  • World's largest mural painted on the front of the building
  • World's largest private fire service
  • 30,000 employees
  • 13,000 bicycles for riding from one end of the building to the other
  • Sections of the plane are made in different countries through the world and flown to Seattle for assembly
  • Some of the parts are so huge that Boeing had to design a new cargo plane, the Dreamlifter
  • The planes are put together on an assembly line and are moved around the floor from station to station
  • It takes 3 days to assemble a complete 747
  • Boeing has orders for the Dreamliner 778 until 2018 
  • Each 778 costs around $300,000,000 each
  • Total take off weight is 975,000,000lbs
  • Paint adds an extra 2000-10,000lbs to the weight
  • Boeing exports more than any other US company
  • The factory does not operate 24/7. Standard work hours are Monday-Friday 9-5. People do work at weekends but it is voluntary (for 1.5, 2x salary, though)
  • The factory has it's own restaurants and cafes; including a Tully's Coffee outlet which sells more than any other outlet in the US
Amazing. Alarming.Recommended




Edited to add: Yes,I know I had typed in 774 instead of 747. I did try to fix it (several times) but there was a problem with the style sheet which I have only just managed to nut out. Put it down to jet lag!

Tommorrow's Breakfast Today


The blog entries are showing the Australian time. It was driving me batty, so I reset the PC to US Pacific/Canadian time. Dosen't seem to to have helped the blog though. It is actually Sunday 14th. Perhaps we will have to live with it. Does it add a  slight enigmantic aura, or just add to the confusion? Yeah, I thought so. I'll try again later - after breakfast.

PLUS!Coming to a blog near you - the tale of our Guiness Book of Worlds' Records trip of Boeing.


Thank you. That is all. We will be deblogging momentarily.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Rampant Hamster

Is there a boutique pet shop on Pike Place? Are animals allowed at the Inn at the Market?? Is it a new Seattle rock band??? No such luck, it's jet lag! And it found me using the laptop, in the bathroom at 2.30 in the morning (and now again at 5.30am). The bathroom is the only place I can turn on a light in our hotel room without waking John - He-who-can-irritatingly-sleep-at-any-time-of-the-day-or-night. And yes, I am sitting on the toilet. It's the only available seat in the bathroom (hey - the lid is closed, OK!!). More information than you needed? Which brings us to the hamsters.

I read my email, caught up on Ravelry and then started idly browsing the web (as you do) looking for webfomation about jet lag. Then I found it; a NewScientist  article reporting on a study in PNAS (Proceedings of the National Academy of Science) - about jet lag in hamsters. Researchers found that jet lag was common in the travelling hamster, but that it could be siginificantly reduced by dosing the hamster with - Viagra. Eh?!! Sorry, I'll read that again, yes, it is correct, Viagra. Now, I am suffering from jet lag so am already losing grip on reality, but this information is a fact too far. I am now perched on the porcelain in a Settle hotel bathroom, imagining flying hamsters. Hamsters; reclining in business class seats, eye masks pushed back on their fuzzy little foreheads, quaffing Piper Heidsiek, popping Viagra, permanently priapic. Thanks very much NewScientist. Now I'm halucinating as well.

Edited to add: Yes, Qantas did give us Piper Heidsiek. No Viagra though. Perhaps that is why they are no longer the world's best airline?

Edited to add - to add: And anyway, what kind of sicko would even think of feeding Viagra to hamsters as a cure for jet lag? Surely this is the stuff of an imagination even more crazed than mine?

Friday, February 12, 2010

Bainbridge Island

The floor had stopped moving this morning, so we started the day with breakfast at Bacco cafe - oatmeal, omelette, carrot and apple juice (yes I know, but it was yummy juice!).

I had been searching Ravelry for locals' recommended yarn shops and Churchmouse Yarns on Bainbridge Island came top of the list. And because it needed a 35 minute ferry ride to the island, John was keen to come too. ($6.50 each for a ticket that lasts for two days - that's a whole lot of entertainment.) It was pretty bracing on the "sun deck" but we stayed topside during the trip out - taking touristy photos of Seattle and Mt Ranier (huge, 26 glaciers!).


Off the ferry and  "follow the salmon" - a line of fish stencilled on the ground leading to downtown Bainbridge Island.

Churchmouse Yarns and Teas was absolutely delightful; busy, chatty, freindly staff, beautiful yarns, needles (lots of choice), hard decisions to be made. (No books, too heavy, no new Offhand Design bag - I do have one or two at home.) John went for a walk around the Island and said he would meet me outside the shop in 30 minutes time. 45 minutes later, I postponed luch for another 30 minutes. So what did I buy? A couple of patterns from the Churchmouse range (I chose simple designs for "on the road" knitting), Hand Maiden Cashmere, Camelspin and some beautiful Rosewood circular needles made by Asciano.

Thanks to another recommendation (from the ladies at Churchmouse) we wound up at the Harbour Public House for lunch. Front row seats overlooking the marina. Beers and ciders on tap (Perseus Porter for John and Foxcreek Cider for me). Nice lunch, more freindly staff, but these compulsory "gratuities" take a bit of getting used to - and gobble up the cash :(



But of course, I had forgotten to buy any tea (it is Churchmouse Yarn and Teas)
so I had to drop back there on the way to the ferry.

Great shop. Highly recommended!










Thursday, February 11, 2010

Flying through customs


We had a good run from Melbourne to Seattle. Some delay out of Melbourne which made our 1 hr connection in Sydney seem a bit (???!!!!) tight due to the transfer from domestic to international (and long queues at security), so there was some nervousness from certain members of the party when WBM was taken aside for last minute, additional random security search of his carryon luggage.        We made it - no worries(hah!) with 5 minutes to spare before they closed boarding.

QANTAS San Francisco 121/2 hr flight uneventful. Some of us slept a bit. (double hah!) Highlight was Sue miming Monty Python while listening to the comedy channel. (One,two, three, tee, hee, hee, Eric the Half a Bee!) Industrial strength whiskey,quadruple sized shots of cognac and wines with dinner may have had something to do with that. Arrival in SFO was a dream (well I don't have dreams like that!); off the plane, through customs and immigration in 15 minutes! Then through security (not too slow and the Border Security and Customs Officials were surprisingly cheery and welcoming)and a short wait for the Alaskan flight to Seattle.

Hotel driver met us at the bagage claim and drove us to the hotel (in a vast, black, leather and wood lined Lincoln Continental). It is of course raining here and 7 dg C.It always rains in Seattle.
(Everyone we meet keeps apologising for the local weather, but it is gorgeous after Melbourne!) Hotel gave us a complimentary bottle of vino and a vast cheese and fruit plater on arrival (a 9 day stay gets you special treatment I guess). The room is very comfortable and the view grand. We have our own balcony complete with big Pacific sea gull where we can watch the boat traffic on Puget Sound.

A quick walk around the market: there is real food to be found in the USA and here is one the places. A couple of nice grocers, wine shops, delis (De Laurentinis deserves further investigation), fresh fruit etc. One even stocked Tasmanian Leatherwood honey. We bought a few supplies to supplement the cheese and fruit platter and tucked into an early dinner.(Gorgeous Pennsylanniva Rosemary cured ham, Californian cacciatorini and San Francisco sourdough) Sue has now given in to jet lag and crashed (dammit man, the floor was moving - 25 hours without sleep will do that!). I'm trying to stay awake a bit longer so as not to wake at 3 am ........not sure I can keep the eye lids open....zzzzzzzzzzzzz

(It was actually 11pm whe he woke me, crashing around the hotel room... See - we managed a whole blog entry and neither of us have been cheesy enough to say we are Sleepless in Seattle. Oh, &^*^*,...)